Will I need new steering knuckles to fit the FE5? No one has pointed out the fact that the shop may have not properly installed the brakes, and that the hoses may be twisted or may have been damaged during the install, allowing them to expand under pressure, causing the spongy pedal.I'm about to be in the market for new control arms, since I'm sure the balljoint and bushing needs to be changed, so imma do em all at once.Īre there any notable differences between, lets say, the FE1 and the FE5? we also still come back to the point of how could bad seals cause a mushy pedal? They would cause a dropping pedal, it would feel okay until pressure started to bypass the seals then the pedal would drop as the pressure was released, once the pressure was released the pedal would be on the floor and the brake warning light would illuminate. Theres no disclaimers for mileage age or fluid condition. The service manual isnt for "new" parts, And even if it was, when you replace a caliper or a hose you dont replace the master, so obviously the master would be used ,LMFAO, its for proper service procedures on these cars. Where exactly does it say not to push it down? Step #14: When the brake pedal is already touching the floor or if it is as low as it will go, then close the bleeder. "and letting air and old fluid drain into the bottle. When the fluid stops, close the bleeder valve." Old fluid and air will go down the tubing into the bottle. # Starting with the rear passenger wheel (back right for righthand drive cars), turn the bleeder bolt to the left one quarter-turn. The helper should shout "down" when the pedal is down as far as it will go. # Have your helper sit in the driver's seat and slowly depresses the brake pedal with an even force and hold it down. # Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit. # Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal. # Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Observe the flow of fluid coming from the ports. # Using a smooth, round-ended tool, depress and release the primary piston as far as it will travel, a depth of about 25 mm (1 in), several times. # Ensure that the ends of the transparent hoses running into the master cylinder reservoir are fully submerged in the brake fluid. Refer to Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations. # Fill the master cylinder reservoir to at least the half-way point with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. # Install transparent hoses to the fittings installed to the master cylinder ports, then route the hoses into the master cylinder reservoir. # Install suitable fittings to the master cylinder ports that match the type of flare seat required and also provide for hose attachment. # Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap and diaphragm. # Secure the mounting flange of the brake master cylinder in a bench vise so that the rear of the primary piston is accessible. Oh BTW I didnt bother to read any of your shadetree links but this is straight from the factory Service Manual: if that doesnt work get a hold of a Tech2 and do a BPMV bleed. Id do a full bleed again, and in the proper RR, LF, LR, RF order. As far as corrosion in the master damaging the seal and casuing a mushy pedal.not likely, its much more likely that the crappy old fluid in the calipers was forced back quickly into the lines and BPMV during brake service, aerating it. Since the primary piston pushes the secondary piston you need fully depress the pedal to get full travel of both pistons during bleeding, this is in on car OR bench bleeding procedures. Wow, so now we dont push the pedal all the way down when bleeding brakes? WTF.thats news to me. Next time you want to argue do your research and don't argue with an Auto Tech. Its in the text right under the picture of the master cylinder push rod. If those three websites werent enough proof for you, this one specifically says you will be buying a new master cylinder once you push the pedal all of the way down to the floor while bleeding.īrake Bleeding Tutorial, Tips and Pictures - Bleed Brakes Like You Mean It - Honda Tuning Magazine Car Maintenance 101: Bleeding your Brakes (Two-Person Brake Fluid Flushing) Auto Mechanic | Auto Mechanic Repair and Maintenance TipsĤ. And, here's few sites specifically saying DO NOT let the pedal travel all of the way down to the floor.ģ. And when it is pushed past its normal range of travel it messed up the seal. There is gunk inside of the master cylinder that the piston never touches. When bleeding brakes the pedal is not supposed to be pushed all of the way to the floor. Do you ever push your brake pedal ALL the way down to the floor? I think not.
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